“This is our decision to live fast and die young.
We've got the vision, now let's have some fun.
Yeah it's overwhelming, but what else can we do?
Get jobs in offices and wake up for the morning commute?”
MGMT
As we told our sponsors before the climb, we’ve gone rogue like Sarah Palin. We are off the grid…
As we wake up battered and depleted, everything points us towards bailing. Only we are too hard headed to concede defeat, not realizing in fact that we are just too stupid to know when to call it. We haven’t had water in a day or so…but who needs hydration anyway? Talking with this degree of cottonmouth makes me sound like I am speaking in tongues…Renan looks at me with confused, puffy eyes. Are we really going up? I am as confused as him…the answer is a surprisingly emphatic ‘yes!’
I dodge rocks as Renan leads through some choss. He short fixes, I jug, dry heave, swing leads, dry heave more, and suck down hard candies like an addict locked in the throes of withdrawals. I can’t wait for the snow, for the water, but we still have hours to go before we get there…if we get there. But the unspoken common ground is that we are down to go up…
As are artists, we are locked in a constant struggle between what we want to capture, and the energy our bodies can afford to give. It’s an instinct to reach for the camera, but one that nearly always falls second to the tasks at hand. Often times, I criticize myself for not shooting more…for not nailing the perfect image…but then again, I am fighting just to move. As athletes, we are succeeding, but as creative individuals, we are flailing…it hurts.
There are multiple points in any given day, during any given hour, or on any given pitch, where I want more than anything to call it in. I want to yell up at Renan that I’ve had it. I can’t swallow, can’t talk…can barely breath, and all of it makes me want to descend. I know he feels the same because I can see it in his face. But our mouths stay shut, moving upwards steadily as a cohesive unit. No, it doesn’t make any sense…but we’ve never pretended to understand. Life is reduced to a consecutive series of familiar motions. Our arms begin to cramp due to lack of fluid. The glands in our mouths stop producing saliva. We are dried up…
All the variables in the equation equal out towards descent. But math was never my strong point…apparently Renan suffers from the same learning disabilities.
c & r
Read more...
Thursday, January 21, 2010
Wednesday, January 20, 2010
TAWOCHE 2k10 dispatches #4
Waking at 3:30 a.m. is the least of my concerns. We haven’t really been sleeping anyway. Our minds are filled with “What Ifs?” and scenarios that leave us wondering if we are struggling against basic fear, or fighting intuition.
Alpine climbing is a labor of love…it’s type 10 fun…the kind of fun that doesn’t have to be fun to be fun. In fact, most of the time spent in the actual activity is consumed by the minds’ pursuit of the base desire that has thrust you into the situation to begin with. In short, it is not something that makes a tremendous amount of sense.
Following your instincts isn’t really an option because your instincts tell you not to leave the ground. But conversely, not leaving the ground isn’t a viable option either…because fighting your desire to climb leaves you more miserable than the climbing itself.
We think about friends we’ve lost in the mountains and wonder if they were feeling the same thing the last morning they crawled from their respective tents. There is a massive question mark that hangs gloomily above the whole situation, and this morning is no different.
I light the incense and tuck it into the makeshift Stupa. Over my shoulders, pre-dawn light outlines the horizon…the dark figures of Makalu, Baruntse, and Ama Dablam. The last of the gear is shoved into the packs in silence as our labored breath rises into the light of our headlamps. The only thing left to do is start climbing. Greater fears are boiled down to specific distractions: Will there be water? Will the weather hold? Can we climb fast enough? And before we know it, the sun warms our backs and we are high above the valley floor on new terrain. The fear melts and melds with joy to create a hybrid emotion that feels almost tangible.
Like my friend Colin Moorehead says, “Climbing is the truth.”
c & r
Read more...
Alpine climbing is a labor of love…it’s type 10 fun…the kind of fun that doesn’t have to be fun to be fun. In fact, most of the time spent in the actual activity is consumed by the minds’ pursuit of the base desire that has thrust you into the situation to begin with. In short, it is not something that makes a tremendous amount of sense.
Following your instincts isn’t really an option because your instincts tell you not to leave the ground. But conversely, not leaving the ground isn’t a viable option either…because fighting your desire to climb leaves you more miserable than the climbing itself.
We think about friends we’ve lost in the mountains and wonder if they were feeling the same thing the last morning they crawled from their respective tents. There is a massive question mark that hangs gloomily above the whole situation, and this morning is no different.
I light the incense and tuck it into the makeshift Stupa. Over my shoulders, pre-dawn light outlines the horizon…the dark figures of Makalu, Baruntse, and Ama Dablam. The last of the gear is shoved into the packs in silence as our labored breath rises into the light of our headlamps. The only thing left to do is start climbing. Greater fears are boiled down to specific distractions: Will there be water? Will the weather hold? Can we climb fast enough? And before we know it, the sun warms our backs and we are high above the valley floor on new terrain. The fear melts and melds with joy to create a hybrid emotion that feels almost tangible.
Like my friend Colin Moorehead says, “Climbing is the truth.”
c & r
Read more...
Tuesday, January 12, 2010
TAWOCHE 2k10 dispatches #3
Turn up the RADIO! Coming at you live from 17,000 ft. below the South Central (Gangsta) Buttress of Tawoche…
Renan and I are stuffed in a tent suffering from pounding altitude headaches. This after our 4,300 ft elevation jump yesterday on our final approach to BC comes as little surprise. We have never actually been accused of being the sharpest bowling balls on the shelf…so go figure.
Tawoche in all her glory rises above us another 5,000ft. With the view, comes the all to familiar rollercoaster of emotions that precede any alpine endeavor. Balancing fear and intuition, angst and energy, the action vs. the idea….they all flow into your already pounding cranial vault, leaving you exhausted before you’ve left the ground.
Since our last dispatch, we are one man, one camera, and one crucial lens down. Chhewang accompanied us to BC, but has since descended to Pangboche to wait. One 5D was tragically lost to a windstorm last night, as well the lens attached. Left with merely pieces, I am more than just a little bummed that the culprit time-lapse didn’t even make the cut for the dispatch.
Thanks for hanging with us…while we have no real comms up here, it means a lot to us to know someone might be listening.
c & r
Read more...
Renan and I are stuffed in a tent suffering from pounding altitude headaches. This after our 4,300 ft elevation jump yesterday on our final approach to BC comes as little surprise. We have never actually been accused of being the sharpest bowling balls on the shelf…so go figure.
Tawoche in all her glory rises above us another 5,000ft. With the view, comes the all to familiar rollercoaster of emotions that precede any alpine endeavor. Balancing fear and intuition, angst and energy, the action vs. the idea….they all flow into your already pounding cranial vault, leaving you exhausted before you’ve left the ground.
Since our last dispatch, we are one man, one camera, and one crucial lens down. Chhewang accompanied us to BC, but has since descended to Pangboche to wait. One 5D was tragically lost to a windstorm last night, as well the lens attached. Left with merely pieces, I am more than just a little bummed that the culprit time-lapse didn’t even make the cut for the dispatch.
Thanks for hanging with us…while we have no real comms up here, it means a lot to us to know someone might be listening.
c & r
Read more...
Thursday, January 7, 2010
TAWOCHE 2k10 dispatches #2
The good news is the plane didn't crash...and there is no bad news.
The lights that dot the hillside outside our window go out one by one...it’s late in Namche. Our floor is less carpet space than duffels overflowing with camera and climbing gear.
Namche is the hub of almost all activity in the high Khumbu and yet now in the off season, it’s hard to find a shop open before noon. We’ve been here for two days, breathing the thinner air, adjusting to the cooler days and hanging out with the Tibetan traders below the village. Thamserku, Kwangde, and Kusum Kanguru tower above us in an impressive trifecta of ice and stone...conditions look good and we are stoked.
Tomorrow we’ll leave before the sun hits the village and wander up the Thame valley towards Tibet. Our friend Chhewang Nima will come along fort he ride.. You’ve never heard of him...but you should have considering he’s climbed Everest 17 times (yeah, you read that right)! His is just another example of Sherpa modesty and stoicism.
The next four days will take us over the Renjo La at roughly 17,400 ft., down to Gokyo, and finally to Phortse where we will stage for our attempt on Tawoche. Three friends, two cameras, one trail....epic.
Read more...
The lights that dot the hillside outside our window go out one by one...it’s late in Namche. Our floor is less carpet space than duffels overflowing with camera and climbing gear.
Namche is the hub of almost all activity in the high Khumbu and yet now in the off season, it’s hard to find a shop open before noon. We’ve been here for two days, breathing the thinner air, adjusting to the cooler days and hanging out with the Tibetan traders below the village. Thamserku, Kwangde, and Kusum Kanguru tower above us in an impressive trifecta of ice and stone...conditions look good and we are stoked.
Tomorrow we’ll leave before the sun hits the village and wander up the Thame valley towards Tibet. Our friend Chhewang Nima will come along fort he ride.. You’ve never heard of him...but you should have considering he’s climbed Everest 17 times (yeah, you read that right)! His is just another example of Sherpa modesty and stoicism.
The next four days will take us over the Renjo La at roughly 17,400 ft., down to Gokyo, and finally to Phortse where we will stage for our attempt on Tawoche. Three friends, two cameras, one trail....epic.
Read more...
Tuesday, January 5, 2010
The Other Side of the Lens
So while I was in Mallorca bringing you the Psicoblogs, Tim Kemple was busy shooting Stills and Video. He is creating a short profile of each athlete on the trip, and this is the one he created for me...hope you like it...and stay tuned for more of Renan's sick dispatches from Nepal where soon he'll be going for the full on winter alpine gnar. Cheers. Cedar. Read more...
Monday, January 4, 2010
Nepal Expedition 2K10 Dispatch #1!!
It’s 5:45 a.m. and Renan and I are up and throwing the last of the goods into barrels and duffels. What stays? What goes? Where are my shoes?
Our days in Kathmandu have been good…a productive and creative time to sink back into Nepali culture before getting on a plane to fly into the mountains. There is no doubt it is time to get out of the city and up into the hills. The flight to Lukla is a time-warp…you get on the plane surrounded by the amenities of modern life and 45 minutes later, after landing on a super sketchy runway that angles steeply uphill, find yourself surrounded only by trails, monasteries and deep gorges. No more car horns and pollution…it’s sick!
The motivation and creativity are running thick and Renan and I are busting at the seams to capture our trip and bring everyone back home along…it’s good to be here, but the extended tribe is never far from our thoughts.
~Cory
The new year is staring out right! I'm in Nepal for 2 part adventure. First I'll be meeting up with my friend Cory Richards for a first ascent attempt on the 6000M Tawoche Himal followed up by teaching Nepali climbers technical skills as part of the Khumbu Climbing School. Nepal holds a special place in our hearts with its vibrant people, iconic mountains and rich culture. We are going to do the best we can to share the endeavor! ~renan
Read more...
Our days in Kathmandu have been good…a productive and creative time to sink back into Nepali culture before getting on a plane to fly into the mountains. There is no doubt it is time to get out of the city and up into the hills. The flight to Lukla is a time-warp…you get on the plane surrounded by the amenities of modern life and 45 minutes later, after landing on a super sketchy runway that angles steeply uphill, find yourself surrounded only by trails, monasteries and deep gorges. No more car horns and pollution…it’s sick!
The motivation and creativity are running thick and Renan and I are busting at the seams to capture our trip and bring everyone back home along…it’s good to be here, but the extended tribe is never far from our thoughts.
~Cory
The new year is staring out right! I'm in Nepal for 2 part adventure. First I'll be meeting up with my friend Cory Richards for a first ascent attempt on the 6000M Tawoche Himal followed up by teaching Nepali climbers technical skills as part of the Khumbu Climbing School. Nepal holds a special place in our hearts with its vibrant people, iconic mountains and rich culture. We are going to do the best we can to share the endeavor! ~renan
Read more...
Tuesday, December 22, 2009
Living the Dream
Thanks for all the support for the Nikon Festival Submission. Although it was denied from the finals, I'm psyched about the experience....looking forward to future projects with art and climbing.
My quintessential day here in Boulder Colorado.
For most of the last 6 years I've been a traveling vagabond following my passion for art and climbing. This existence involved sleeping outside in wild places, hitching rides, having very little belongings, a drained bank account and some gourmet dumpster diving for food. I climbed everyday and lived my dream.
These days I'm a domesticated man. By most people's standards I'm still living in the ghetto with my 1988 beater car and trailer-like house. Each day I find time to escape to the nearby rock spires and bag a summit. Making this creative short I realized that I still live my dream everyday...!
Read more...
My quintessential day here in Boulder Colorado.
For most of the last 6 years I've been a traveling vagabond following my passion for art and climbing. This existence involved sleeping outside in wild places, hitching rides, having very little belongings, a drained bank account and some gourmet dumpster diving for food. I climbed everyday and lived my dream.
These days I'm a domesticated man. By most people's standards I'm still living in the ghetto with my 1988 beater car and trailer-like house. Each day I find time to escape to the nearby rock spires and bag a summit. Making this creative short I realized that I still live my dream everyday...!
Read more...
Sunday, December 20, 2009
BAck To The Roots: Indian Creek 5.13a F.A. of M.D.M.C.P. 09
My most recent foray into the unknown continued with this trend. Nick and I were lucky to establish our new route over a few days and headed back to Boulder psyched on our little dose of adventure. We both lead the crux pitch, and I managed to onsight the wild twenty five foot roof on the third pitch by the skin of my teeth. We named the route the "Micah Dash Memorial Choss Pile" in honor of our good friend Micah Dash who was lost in the mountains of China this year. I think he would have appreciated the tongue-in-cheek name, which as it turns out is not a choss pile at all!! Micah loved the creek and was always good for a laugh and a quality shit talking session around the fire. Well...Enjoy everyone. Happy Holidays!! Cedar Wright.
Man was it great to get back down to Indian Creek over Thanks Giving!! The Creek has always been one of my favorite climbing areas, and it felt like coming home as I rolled into Beef Basin with my good friend Nick Martino. Over the years I've been lucky to put up some classic First Ascents in the Creek that buck the trend of the straight in splitter and offer up more complex esoteric climbing.... Read more...
Man was it great to get back down to Indian Creek over Thanks Giving!! The Creek has always been one of my favorite climbing areas, and it felt like coming home as I rolled into Beef Basin with my good friend Nick Martino. Over the years I've been lucky to put up some classic First Ascents in the Creek that buck the trend of the straight in splitter and offer up more complex esoteric climbing.... Read more...
Tuesday, December 15, 2009
VERTICAL CARNIVAL THE ALBUM
If you have been following the Vertical Carnival blog for long, you probably realize that I make most of the music for the short films that Renan and I bring you every week. I produce the music on my computer fusing together live and electronic instruments, along with my funky vocal stylings. If you like what you've been hearing, I now have the album for sale as a digital download. For six bucks you get 21 songs!!
Read more...
Wednesday, December 9, 2009
BLIND AND NAKED
Hey Guys!!! Cedar Here!! So I am pleased to present this short piece that I created for the Access Fund. A few weeks ago I filmed Erik Weihenmayer Climbing the legendary Naked Edge in Eldo Canyon. What's special about that....well for those of you who haven't heard about Erik...he is blind and probably most famous for his historical ascent of Mt. Everest. This is one of the most inspiring feats of climbing I have ever witnessed first hand and I am so psyched for you all to see it...Eric only hung a few times on the route and it was wind to watch his techniques, such as scanning the rock for footholds with his hand then placing his feet with impressive precision. Eric definitely became one of my heros that dayCheers... Enjoy and please, please join the Access Fund by clicking this link.
Hey Guys!!! Cedar Here!! So I am pleased to present this short piece that I created for the Access Fund. A few weeks ago I filmed Erik Weihenmayer Climbing the legendary Naked Edge in Eldo Canyon. What's special about that....well for those of you who haven't heard about Erik...he is blind and probably most famous for his historical ascent of Mt. Everest. This is one of the most inspiring feats of climbing I have ever witnessed first hand and I am so psyched for you all to see it...Cheers... Enjoy and please, please join the Access Fund by clicking this link.
Read more...
Hey Guys!!! Cedar Here!! So I am pleased to present this short piece that I created for the Access Fund. A few weeks ago I filmed Erik Weihenmayer Climbing the legendary Naked Edge in Eldo Canyon. What's special about that....well for those of you who haven't heard about Erik...he is blind and probably most famous for his historical ascent of Mt. Everest. This is one of the most inspiring feats of climbing I have ever witnessed first hand and I am so psyched for you all to see it...Cheers... Enjoy and please, please join the Access Fund by clicking this link.
Read more...
Thursday, December 3, 2009
"Like a Prayer" 5.13- trad FA
Here is the matty segal send from just after thanksgiving, a great new climb at the most popular crag in Indian Creek. Thanks for tuning in. ~renan
Read more...
Tuesday, December 1, 2009
Monday, November 30, 2009
Indian Creek Rukus
It was great to get back to the roots and spend thanksgiving in the unique red sandstone landscape of Indian Creek, Utah. After the tragic deaths of our friends this past summer it made me sad not to share this with them. It was clear that they helped the community grow stronger than ever and get psyched to live life to the fullest everyday. Here is the quick and dirty edit of about 3,000 photos that tell the story of T-day with the monkeys, complete with on location camp-fire music from the late Jonny Copp's father Jonathan Sr. We missed you Micah, Jonny & Wade! Stay tuned for footage of Cedar and Nick Martino's new 5.13 at the 2nd Meat Wall and Matty Segals new 5.13 at Battle of the Bulge...
Read more...
Read more...
Wednesday, November 18, 2009
PSICOBLOG 9 "CORAZON DE MALLORCA"
For those who click on the "Read More" tab you are rewarded with a funny story about Miguel. We were hanging out with some Brit climbers after I shot this short video and having a beer. One of the Brit's had worked for a company that sold "Penis Casts" to hospitals. It turns out that it is in fact possible to break the cartilage in your penis if a woman is riding you on top hard enough. Miquel was mortified, but also could see how it might happen. I believe that he was a changed man after that day and may opt for other positions whenever possible.
On another note, you will be happy to hear that there will be a couple more psicoblogs, and then I will return to my huge backlog of Brazil footage for more shorts from the trip that started this whole "verticalcarnival" never ending blog!!! To everyone who has tuned in...again thank you...if nothing else I hope it gives you a moment of entertainment...and perhaps a giggle or a smile. I'm off to Indian Creek for a pre thanksgiving adventure, so stay tuned for some footy from that...and Renan is working on a short POV solo tidbit from a quick adventure we had up in Eldo today...woohoo!!!!
If you are lucky enough to experience the extreme pleasure of a deep water soloing sojourn to Mallorca, there is a good chance you will meet deep water solo pioneer, Miquel Riera, a veritable living legend. Miquel is one of the coolest guys you could ever hope to meet, with an undying psyche for climbing, women, and partying. I followed Miquel around one day for a trip off the beaten path. This was perhaps the most intimidating day of the trip with rough waters and virgin rock!!! Enjoy the latest Psicoblog. Cheers. Cedar. Read more...
On another note, you will be happy to hear that there will be a couple more psicoblogs, and then I will return to my huge backlog of Brazil footage for more shorts from the trip that started this whole "verticalcarnival" never ending blog!!! To everyone who has tuned in...again thank you...if nothing else I hope it gives you a moment of entertainment...and perhaps a giggle or a smile. I'm off to Indian Creek for a pre thanksgiving adventure, so stay tuned for some footy from that...and Renan is working on a short POV solo tidbit from a quick adventure we had up in Eldo today...woohoo!!!!
If you are lucky enough to experience the extreme pleasure of a deep water soloing sojourn to Mallorca, there is a good chance you will meet deep water solo pioneer, Miquel Riera, a veritable living legend. Miquel is one of the coolest guys you could ever hope to meet, with an undying psyche for climbing, women, and partying. I followed Miquel around one day for a trip off the beaten path. This was perhaps the most intimidating day of the trip with rough waters and virgin rock!!! Enjoy the latest Psicoblog. Cheers. Cedar. Read more...
Monday, November 16, 2009
Naked Edge with Conrad Anker
Cedar is working on more PiscoBlog masterpieces from Mallorca that should be up soon, but until then I'd thought I'd post this experimental short from close to home! Conrad Anker is always psyched and motivated for adventure and has been climbing nonstop in every corner of the globe for over 30 years...good fuel for the fire a snowy, groggy Monday morning after the Adventure Film Festival madness!
Read more...
Read more...
Monday, October 26, 2009
THE ADVENTURE FILM FESTIVAL
WOOHOOOO Renan and I have both had our original films selected for the Adventure Film Festival in Boulder Colorado!!! We are honored to have made the cut with over 300 films screened! This will the world premiere for my short film "Pra Caramba" that features the best footage you never saw from Brazil!!! Renan's award winning film about suffering in the center of the universe is called SAMSARA. If you have the time we'd really appreciate you coming out for the festival. Adventurefilm.org
Read more...
Monday, October 19, 2009
PSICOBLOG 8 "FIRE OR WATER"
As The North Face Team wraps up their fun, action, and whipper filled trip to Mallorca, James Pearson and Alex Honnold take it to the next level and climb a sick 13d with the crux fifty feet above the Mediterranean Sea!!! Stay tuned for two more "Psicoblogs." Read more...
Thursday, October 15, 2009
PSICOBLOG Behind the Scenes "BALLERVISION"
So we stayed in a pretty baller pad while in Mallorca...but the weird thing was that it was haunted by ghosts. Check out this sick stop motion shot by Pat, who shows more promise for stop motion than rappeling!! Read more...
Wednesday, October 7, 2009
PSICOBLOG BEHIND THE SCENES "Anything For The Shot"
So there are more "psicoblogs" in the works, but in the meantime, I thought I'd show you this quick behind the scenes sneak peak created by Tim Kemple. Tim Kemple is one of the biggest Baller/Hustlers in the climbing industry. When he pushes the shutter button, you can literally hear a cash register cha-ching noise come out!!...it's pretty amazing. TIm is such a Baller that he even travels around with his own assistant named "Pat." Pat is a genius...as you will see in this short clip...enjoy. Read more...
Saturday, October 3, 2009
PSICOBLOG 7 "SMACKDOWN"
Alright for those chosen few who click the read more link...I'm going to let you in on a secret...Shh I'm not actually in Mallorca anymore!! I'm back in Boulder after three weeks of sports action...I tried to bring you as many of these blogs from the field as possible, but it was all I could do to get you six episodes from Spain...and still manage to shoot, climb and even sleep a little. I'm sitting on 250 GBs of footage so I'll be bringing you at least ten of these "Psicoblogs" in total, so please stay tuned and let me know what you think! Renan and I will be headed to Zion soon for first ascent adventures, so hopefully we can bring you a cool piece from that. Have fun out there...Cheers and lots of love...Cedar Wright.
So we went and checked out this crazy cave call Cala Llomabards and we all gave it a go. The seas were extremely rough and it was really unnerving with the sea booming and exploding below our backs as we dangled out the huge roof. It was even more unnerving when James broke a hold and fell flat on his back...drawing blood from water!!! Read more...
So we went and checked out this crazy cave call Cala Llomabards and we all gave it a go. The seas were extremely rough and it was really unnerving with the sea booming and exploding below our backs as we dangled out the huge roof. It was even more unnerving when James broke a hold and fell flat on his back...drawing blood from water!!! Read more...
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